Hello India! Part 7- Varanasi

Beautiful early morning light on the Ganges

Art work on the banks of the Ganges

A child washing dishes in the Ganges

I arrived in Varanasi, the greatest of Hindu cities, from Rishikesh. An epic journey- my longest in India - partly due to it being the slow train, 22 hours in total. 

Varanasi, also known as Benaras, stretches along the crescent of the river Ganges, and it's ghats ( steps to the water) are the most famous in India and where thousands come to bathe in its waters daily. Known to devotees as Kashi ( City of Light) and founded by Lord Shiva, Varanasi is one of the most continuously inhabited  and oldest cities in the world. 

It is also famous for its 'burning ghats', where bodies are cremated before the ashes scattered in the sacred river. Anyone who does in Varanasi attains instant enlightenment do many elderly come here to live out their final days. 

I was in Varanasi at the time of the festival to Lord  Shiva ( mentioned in my Rishikesh blog) so the narrow alleyways full of people and animals, were even more cramped and tight than normal as devotees crowded through on their way to the holy '  Vishwanatha or Golden Temple' . The back streets are not always easy to navigate as piles of rubbish are strewn everywhere, animals  - dogs, pigs, buffalos and the ever present cows - wandering and picking through the rubbish.  Cow dung was an ever present problem too, having to dodge it that is. And on the monsoon rain, it created rivers of very nasty water to wade through. Nice. 

On arrival at the station, I managed to avoid the notorious touts and auto rickshaw drivers by contacting my choice of accommodation - Shanti Guesthouse ( near the Manikarnika or Burning Ghat) - and insisting that they collected me ( Alex who I had met in Rishikesh had recommended I do this) and therefore ensuring a 'free' auto rickshaw ride, something I had never received before and didn't expect to again!  It was a sound choice, my room was clean ( although without a window) and the guesthouse provided free Ganges boat trips at sunrise and sunset, and I got up early the next morning for the 5am trip to see the ghats come to life as the sun rose.

After checking in and showering, the light of the day was fading so I decided before dark to explore the immediate area. Marnkarnika Ghat, as I mentioned previously, is the 'burning' ghat and as its name suggests, it is the main cremation ground. Burnings happen all day and night, and bodies are carried through the narrow alleyways to the ghat, constantly. It was easy to find yourself in he midst of a burial procession in this area. As I arrived, the ghat was busy with funeral parties and those involved in building the fires ( there are stacks of logs everywhere- being delivered on boats, being stacked or prepared for a pyre, alongside the Doms - the Untouchable guardians facilitating the process of the final release). There were all sorts of people hanging around - those offering to talk you through the proceedings, insisting they were not 'guides', people clearing the scenes of fires or building new ones and the ever present cows, dogs and circling birds. 

It was a fascinating scene and I was to revisit a few times, seeing bodies cremated so publicly is not something we are used to. I saw one very clearly, its head visible as the lower half of the body burned. Relatives do not cry so the scene felt strange. I saw two men of the funeral party passing a mobile phone whilst dogs scampered and scavenged amongst the ashes of the burning body. All around preparations were being made for another burning as a body had arrived, shrouded in material and shiny orange and gold paper, the remnants and remains of these were scattered in the filth and debris all around and up to the edges of the water. The smell is not an unpleasant one as you would expect as the bodies are doused in oils, particularly sandalwood. I did notice some recycling taking place too as the bamboo used to make the  stretchers carrying the corpses were being collected to be used again. 

On the early morning boat trip on the river, I met fellow travellers who I was to spend time with over the next 24 hours. I did a walk all the way down to the southern Asi Ghat with two Irish girls. I have included pictures of some of the things we saw and people we met en route. We went into the narrow alleyways beyond the ghats to explore the Old City and found old temples , stalls, shrines, linghams and paintings on walls amidst cows literally everywhere. We had lunch at the wonderful Brown Bread Bakery Restaurant and Organic Shop which supports a children's charity and women's project from its profits. I have included a link. 

Amidst the narrow lanes of the Old City is the Vishwanatha or Golden Temple. Closed to foreigners, you were able to glimpse the gold plating on its massive shikhara (spire). It is heavily guarded ( even more so due to the shiva festival - I heard tales of women scratching each other in attempts to get in ) and there were chaotic scenes at the narrow entrance. It has a troubled history due to its close proximity to a mosque- which too has to be heavily guarded to prevent attacks from Hindu fanatics of which there seemed to be many in town! I got a good vantage point to view the proceedings of youths clad in orange chanting down the narrow alleyways, a man informed me that in the last ten years there have been many outbreaks of terrorism and ethnic violence between Hindus and Muslims in this area.

My last evening in Varanasi ( and India proper as I would be travelling the next two nights) was a special one. Along with the people I had met at Shanti and a group of four Irish travellers, we congregated at the waterside or Lotus ceremony performed at the end of the day on the banks of the Ganga. It was quite something to see the rituals that are so important to Hindus in this most sacred of cities. 

We finished the evening back at Brown Bread and chatted about places we had been, shared experiences and traded tips for other cities- for me it was great to pick up some some information for the last two places on my itinerary, Bodhgaya and Calcutta. 

I told those assembled that it was my last night in India, and apart from Hong Kong, pretty much the last of my trip and I was asked to share the highlights and what I'd learned in my journey. It was a great night with good people and although low key, one I won't forget. My journey was almost at an end.

Next stop: Bodhgaya then Calcutta ( Kolkarta) 

www.brownbreadbakery.com

Walking along the ghats brought many beautiful photo opportunities

Pilgrims in Varanasi

My last night in India, with fellow travellers at the brown Bread cafe

Hello India, Part 6 - Rishikesh

Some of the amazing artwork at the Beatles ashram

Pilgrims worshipping the god shiva in Rishikesh

Worshipping the god Shiva

At the Beatles ashram

I arrived in Rishikesh following an overnight bus journey from Dharamsala.  For the first time there were other Westerners on the bus and I used this to my advantage when we arrived at our destination.  What I had been aware of, but had not quite comprehended, was the fact that there was a big festival happening in Rishikesh, to the Hindu god, Shiva. The evidence of this was apparent from the outset, as roads were closed and huge numbers of mainly men in orange tee-shirts were everywhere. I shared a rickshaw with two Australian girls to the area of Rishikesh where most backpackers head,   Lakshmanjhula. 

Rishikesh lies north of Delhi on the sacred Ganges river. It is the centre of all manner of Hindu and New Age activity and has many ashrams, attracting devotees from far and wide. It is also a stopping off point for many religious men, swamis and sadhus on their way to the Himalayas. The Beatles came here in 1968 to meet the Maharishi Yogi and put it firmly on the map. They spent time here during which they wrote much of the material that ended up as 'The White Album'.

Today, as in Dharamsala, there are a huge range of courses available and I was determined to do some yoga classes which I looked into straight away. Although it advertised it as 'traditional Indian yoga', the use if props and precision of the poses were familiar to me from practicing Iyengar yoga in the past. I did a couple of very enjoyable early morning sessions. A great way to start the day!

I enjoyed my couple of days in Rishikesh very much. It was very hectic in the streets as the pictures show, and you could not walk anywhere without being photographed countless times whether knowingly or unknowingly. In fact, when we left yoga each morning, we were positively mobbed! However, despite the craziness in the streets we managed to escape to the calmness of Bombay Guesthouse which had a lovely courtyard in which to relax. I became friends with Alex and Antoine, as well as the Australian girls, and it was good to have a group to hang out with and have dinner. I also met Scotty, from Hartlepool ,who had been travelling in India for the last five years. He had a motorbike and drove Alex and I to the Beatles ashram. The ride, through streets thronged with the pilgrims, was particularly memorable and as you can imagine, we must have made quite an impression. At the Beatles ashram itself, Alex and I spent a couple of hours taking in the atmosphere of what once must have been quite something. Today, it is no longer a working ashram and has largely fell to ruin. Nevertheless, the sprawling grounds have retained a spiritual harmony and some areas- like the meditation hall- have become shrines in themselves. See the pictures which show some of the art work we saw. We played some tracks from the Beatles' White album- much of which they wrote when they were here- which made it extra special. And at the end we stumbled upon two people who had painted a tribute to George Harrison in the individual dome shaped structure he had used for personal meditation. They had just finished as we took a look at their work, had a chat, whilst the Beatles played from their laptop. 

Rishikesh was a place I could easily have stayed for longer but for my time really was getting down to the last few days and I managed ( with some difficulty due to the Shiva festival) to book a train for Varanasi, the spiritual home of Hinduism.

Next stop: Varanasi 

Pilgrims dressed in orange to the god Shiva

A monkey at the ashram

One of the meditation huts at the ashram

Hello India! Part 5 - Birthday greetings to the Dalai Lama

The Dalai Lama arrives for his 77th birthday celebrations- and I was there to hear him address those gathered in the temple. Special times.

A view from the rooftop of my guesthouse in Mcleod Ganj

Those who have died or been seriously injured by self-immoliation for their cause

The Temple prepares for the birthday of His Holiness

The Elephant God, Ganesh

Outside the temple in Baghsu

Enjoying a rest on a walk up from Dharamcot

The clouds as they are about to engulf these horses

Although most people refer to Dharamsala as the home of the Dalai Lama, it's McLeod Ganj (1000 metres higher up the valley and about a further ten kilometres in distance) which is the spiritual centre of exiled Tibetan Buddhism. A tiny settlement perched on a ridge of the Himalayan foothills (named after the British Governor who founded it in 1848) it has become a tourist Mecca for both Indian tourists, drawn by the stunning scenery and Tibetan culture, and Westerners in search of the above and for many, some sort of spiritual enlightenment. There is a Vipassana meditation centre and other less austere places to do medidation here and an Iyengar yoga retreat, alongside a huge number of other Buddhist related courses and concerns. The town itself is really too small to cope with its influx of visitors and the narrow streets are often paralysed by traffic with the flow of locals and visitors trying to squeeze between the cars, and, of course, the ever present cows. When I was there it was very wet as the monsoon was in full flow (it is the second wettest place in India too) so the cobbled streets were often flooded, muddy and full of overflowing potholes. Combined with the sound of constant honking of horns ( an Indian obsession) led me to leave after a couple of days for the quieter atmosphere of Dharamcot, a couple of kilometres further up the valley.

Tibet was invaded by China in 1959 and the then Tibetan government fled and based themselves here. Over 50 years later they still remain. 

I was fortunate enough to be in the area on July 6th, the date of the Dalai Lama's birthday. I got up early to be at the temple a couple of hours before the celebrations were due to begin. The atmosphere was on of excitement and anticipation. His Holiness is a greatly revered and well loved individual the world over so seeing him and hearing him speak in his spiritual home was always going to be special. He arrived with his entourage, just before 9am, and after a couple of other speeches by political leaders, we got to hear the man himself. Despite him speaking in Tibetan, you could not help being captivated listening to him deliver his address. He didn't talk for long then dismissed himself before the traditional singing and dancing began, citing that for him he could not celebrate whilst people in his homeland continue to die for the cause of Tibetan independence. I've included a photograph of a poster showing the number of self immolations over the last couple of years. 

We were served chai and traditional sweets as people began to disperse. Outside there was a carnival atmosphere with stalls serving food and traditional Tibetan goods alongside campaigners with petitions to raise awareness of the Tibetan cause. 

My remaining days were spent in Dharamcot, an oasis of calm compared to McLeod Ganj. I found a wonderful place to stay - a big, clean room with an ensuite, hot water and a roomy balcony with amazing views (see photos) all for 250 rupees (about £2.50). I loved spending the first couple of hours of the day reading in the early morning sunshine before heading off for a healthy breakfast of muesli, curd and honey washed down with lemon and ginger. The weather invariably turned by mid to late morning so reading and relaxing were the main diversions. I did manage a trek one day and the views it afforded were some of the best as you can see from the photos included. People spend months in this part of India- doing yoga, meditation and Buddhism courses- and its easy to see why. 

Leaving Dharamcot was a wrench as I felt so relaxed and rejuvenated. But I have places I still wish to visit as time starts to catch up with me.

Next stop: Rishikesh

Hello India! Part 4- Delhi, Delhi and the Amritsar Express

The Raj Ghat where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated and a permanent memorial to  him

A scene from a rooftop cafe in Paharganj, Delhi

I felt like stealing this man"s block of ice in the steaming Delhi temperatures!

The Lotus Temple in Delhi

A view of the Jama Masjid taken from my cycle rickshaw

I arrived in the capital of India (and its third largest city) after an overnight train from Mumbai. It was my first time on an AC train ( having previously been slumming it in sleeper) and I couldn't believe that meals were included along with white sheets and blankets! Such luxury. 

Delhi has been the capital since 1931 and is a huge city of jam packed streets, temples, forts and mosques.

Arrival at any station is a challenge and Delhi proved no exception. I managed to sort out the bus I needed to take me close to my destination of Paharganj, without succumbing  to the persistent demands of the rickshaw, autos or taxi drivers who always tell you there is 'no bus' to your destination. I always ignore them. 

Paharganj is a well known budget and backpacker area. It was hot and steamy and the walk through the Main Bazaar, packed with cheap hotels and guesthouses, restaurants , cafes and stalls selling all manner  of cheap traveller fare, was not pleasant in the stifling Delhi heat. Even by Delhi standards it is hot - 45 degrees and above. Once I had found my guesthouse up one of the many narrow alleyways off the main drag, I decided to try and do something (although I had  been to Delhi before) so got an auto rickshaw to Raj Ghat, a memorial to three Gandhis and the site of their cremations- Mahatma (1948), Indira (1984) and Rajiv (1991). Ghats are steps along a riverbank allowing people to wash, bathe and for purposes of worship. This is more of a park than a ghat as it lies well away from the riverbank. 

During my brief stay in Delhi I also managed to visit the Lotus Temple, built in 1985 and seen as an architectural gem of India. Nearby was the Iskcon Temple. In the blistering heat I met a group of Hindu worshippers who saw me wilting and offered me food and drink. I declined the good but did accept a lassi. I later spotted a McDonalds in the distance and whilst it is not somewhere i normally go, I couldn't resist the chance to escape the heat to an air conditioned restaurant. I ordered a coke and fries! 

Later I discovered the Delhi metro and made my way to the Chawri Bazaar  stop, near to the Jama Masjid, India's biggest mosque. I was offered a cycle rickshaw for 20 rupees ( although he tried to charge me 40 when we got to out destination) so i decided  to enjoy a ride through the crowded bazaar that surrounds the mosque.

 The Mosque soars above the narrow streets of the old city and was built to accommodate 25000 worshippers. It was designed by the Shah Jahan ( architect of the Taj Mahal) and built by over 5000 workers between 1644 and 1656. 

My time in Delhi was almost up as I had booked the Golden Temple Express for my next destination, Amritsar.   

Food at the Golden Temple

It takes a lot of onions to make enough dahl to feed people for 24 hours a day. Over 10,000 chapattis are also baked.

In front of the Harinder of the Golden Temple

Another beautiful sari

The Temple by night

Early morning worshippers

The temple complex in all its glory

The overnight train to Amritsar was a comfortable one in 2AC class and I only awoke as we reached our destination. The heat was stifling even at 6.30 in the morning and after depositing my main luggage ( not without a drama as I was asked to provide my train ticket which Id left on the train) I took a cycle rickshaw into the city through dusty streets just coming to life and my ultimate destination, the Golden Temple. 

Amritsar is the largest city in the Punjab and an important staging post for those crossing the Indo-Pakistan border. This is the 'Vatican' of Sikhism, the most famous gurdwara in the world, and I was pretty excited about seeing it. 

The town itself was founded in 1577 by Ram Das but sacked by the Afghans in 1761 after which the main shrine was rebuilt by the Sikhs' greatest secular leader, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, who donated the gold used in its construction. The son of Ram Das, Argan Dev, was the architect of the temple itself in the mate 16th century.

In the 20th century it's history has been blighted by massacres. In 1919 thousands of civilian demonstrators were gunned down without warning by British troops- an atrocity that inspired Mahatma Gandhi's Non Co-operation Movement. Much violence also played put in the region following Independence and the creation of Pakistan. The worst massacre was one I can actually remember when followers of the Sikh fundamentalist Saint Jarnail Singh Bhindranwale occupied a building in the Golden Temple complex. His aim was a separate state for Sikhs. This led the then Prime Minister Indira Gandhi to order a parliamentary attack on the temple. Following this, Bhindranwale, 200 soldiers and between 2-3000 pilgrims died when they became trapped inside. And this in turn led to the assassination of Gandhi herself by her Sikh bodyguards in 1984. 

The Golden Temple is the spiritual  centre  of the Sikh faith and every Sikh tries at least once in their lifetime to visit.  

I was able to wander around the temple three times and part of the enjoyment, aside from the stunning setting and architecture all around you, is seeing huge numbers of ordinary Sikhs coming to pay their respects. Even when I got up for the sunrise the next morning, the place was packed out as devotees are encouraged bathe and pray at dawn.

The cross-section of Sikh society are represented- from all over India, non resident Sikhs returning from the UK or US and fierce looking warriors carrying lances and sabres, the unorthodox Nihangs who are devotees of military Sikhism. 

As you enter the temple complex ( leaving your shoes), you walk along a white marble walkway through a water trough to wash your feet towards the archway which reveals the Golden Temple within, sitting in the middle of the sacred pool. I stayed at the complex for the night too and was able to experience the scene by darkness-  the lit up temple looked magnificent ( see picture) by night.

You cross a narrow bridge to see the famous Sikh book- the Guru Granth Sahib -more than one thousand pages of poetic  meditations on God. The music coming from within ( kirtan or communal singing) is , quite literally, divine. 

I also ate at the temple's communal kitchen. You are given an aluminium tray and bowl as you stand in line and sit in rows for each sitting ( the kitchen provides free food around the clock). Everyone is an equal here ( no caste system in the Sikh faith) so beggars, Hindu Sandhus, pilgrims and Western tourists, eat side by side. I was 'adopted' by a family - keen and proud to have the token Westerner  sitting with them! And the food itself was basic but sound fare, a dollop of black bean dahl, chapattis and a coconut semolina type dessert - all served by attendants with big buckets and ladles coming down the line. Before we tucked in, a few words and prayers were uttered by a couple of Holy men. 

One of the other things that most travellers to this part of India experience is a trip to the Indo- Pakistan border for the changing of the guard ceremony that happens each day at dusk. The town where this happens is called Wagha, about 30km from Amritsar. It was an interesting experience and the Indian side of the border had an atmosphere of the carnival compared to the Pakistan side which was much quieter. I have heard the ceremony described as Phythonesque and would agree with that - the soldiers pacing with an odd marching style and trying to outdo each other with the cries and shouts. The heat for me was intense too which detracted away from the enjoyment of the occasion although the locals loved it.

I had to leave Amritsar the next day for the next stage of my journey. 

Next stop: Dharamsala

Celebrations on the Indian side of the border

The crowds enjoying the ceremony

Hello India! Part 3 - Goa and Mumbai

Boys playing on Palolem beach, south Goa

Palolem beach in Goa- the sun did eventually come out

A welcome cup of Earl Grey (my favourite tea ever)  at the  Cheeky Chapatti restaurant in Palolem Beach

The SE Cathedral in Goa

The beautiful Cathedral in Panjim, Goa

I eventually left Hampi, knowing that this place will remain in my thoughts for a long time to come. The town is going through a huge transition as its people are in the process of being relocated to a 'new' village a few kilometres away. The plan is to eventually move all the businesses and inhabitants of the town to this new location. The process is evident, with many buildings already demolished and the place is abuzz with talk of what the government has decided will happen. Many people are losing their traditional way of life and businesses built up over generations. The balance between preserving historical monuments and the rights of inhabitants in such areas remains one that is difficult to manage without a human cost.

I have attached a link about the issue to this blog entry. 

From Hampi I took an overnight train to Madgoan, the transport hub for Goa and headed south to Palolem beach. Despite the rain ( it is now the monsoon season) I loved walking along the beach with the sand between my toes. There was still life in the place and I found a room at a guesthouse right on the beach itself. There were a few other travellers around but it was a relatively quiet couple of days of reading, enjoying lovely food - I particularly liked the 'Cheeky Chapatti' restaurant ( see picture attached) - and being mesmerised by the view of the sea from the veranda of the guesthouse. And the sun did eventually come out so I managed half a day of beach time. 

I had met Victoria from the US on my first day in Goa and she asked if I wanted to share a trip she was doing by car to Panjim and Old Goa. It sounded like a plan. 

About an hour north of Madgoan, our first destination was Old Goa. Goa itself was  used by the Portuguese as a base from the early 16th century when they tried to control the spice trade from the East. Jesuit missionaries led by St. Francis Xavier arrived in 1542. Today it is hard to believe that back in the 1500s the population exceeded that of Lisbon and London. So today, it's like a bit of Portugal has been dumped in India, it's influence all around. Old Goa has a number of churches to visit, including the imposing St.Francis of Assisi church and the SE Cathedral. From there it was onto Panjim ( formerly Panaji) , the capital of Goa. After a lunch at a local cafe we did a walking tour which began at the Cathedral and made its way through the heritage area of town where the colonial architecture is at its best. We marvelled at the colours of the buildings and the 'European' feel of the place. We stopped for refreshments at a beautiful art gallery cum cafe. And weaving our way up the steps of a temple dedicated to the monkey god Hanuman,  we took in fantastic views of a very lush and green landscape all around.

I thoroughly enjoyed my day with Victoria. She is great and engaging company. And I particularly enjoyed being picked up and driven around all day. After local buses, my usual mode of transport,  I felt like a VIP! 

Colonial buildings on theHeritage Trail in Panjim, Goa

The Hanuman Temple In Panjim

The Taj Palace Hotel in Mumbai

At the famous Gateway of India, Mumbai

A mural in Mumbai

Mumbai  architecture

Saturday afternoon strollers on Marine Drive

Chowpatty Beach

And so, to Mumbai , or Bombay as it was known during the Raj , a settlement that  was ceded to the British by the Portuguese in 1661 who themselves had received it from the Sultan of Ahmedabad.  Strategically significant, it's location on the Arabian Sea have made it the principal gateway to the Indian sub-continent since the opening of the Suez Canal. It is the capital of the Maharashtran region and has the label of being India's most dynamic and westernised city. I have to say, my first impression  arriving in the Colaba District was one of Am I still in India? It is the principal  home of India's business, industry and commerce and of course, it's film industry 'Bollywood'. It's crammed into a peninsular and gives the impression of a metropolis desperately short of space. But it's a city where the extremes ate most acutely felt- the urban uber rich rubbing shoulders with the desperate poverty of some of the worst slums in India. it has also been associated with home grown terrorism in 1993 when ten massive bomb blasts ripped through the heart of the city, killing 260 people. And again in 2003 when a car bomb exploded near the Gateway of India, killing 107 people. No one claimed responsibility for either attack although Muslim militants were suspected. 

My stay was a short one. After finding the legendary Red Shield Salvation Army hostel and dropping off my bags, I set off to explore the immediate area. Colaba is the main tourist district and trendy hangout full of bars and restaurants. Within a few minutes I was at the Gateway of India (see photos) commemorating  the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911. The arch was built in 1924 and is India's very own Arc de Triomphe. It is remembered also as the place the British chose to stage their final departure from India in 1948. Directly behind it is the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower- a showcase of local pride against colonial oppression. The industrialist who built it is said to have some so as an act of revenge after being refused entry into the ' whites only' Watson's Hotel. As I visited it was packed with largely Indian tourists posing for the obligatory photo in front of these two iconic Mumbai monuments.

 The rest of my day was spent wandering in Colaba, particularly the street bazaar, and them making my way to the Churchgate and Fort area which contains some wonderful Raj architecture - the site of thr British era's oldest buildings- such as St. Thomas' Cathedral , the GPO and the Victoria Terminus, inspired by St. Pancras Station in London. I had lunch in a quirky little Iranian restaurant that had been recommended by another traveller called Britannia and Co.

My time in Mumbai was limited but I thoroughly enjoyed my day there and was definitely left thinking that I should have stayed longer. Taking a cab to the station, the driver talked me into a detour via Marine Drive and Chowpatty Beach, two Mumbai institutions. This stretch is popular for afternoon and early evening strolls. As it was Saturday and late afternoon, the area was buzzing with life. A great way to complete my short sejour in Mumbai.

Next stop : Delhi then Amritsar  

http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2012/may/27/hampi-india-heritage-temples-eviction?INTCMP=SRCH