San Francisco 2013

I never tired of visiting Crissy fields and joining the joggers, walkers and cyclists taking in this view.

Gorgeous jams and chutneys in Mendocino

Glass Beach at Fort Bragg

Shell beach, northern California

Street murals in the Mission

One of the best things about independent travel is the interesting and like minded people you meet. I have been so fortunate that some of my best friends are people I have met this way, who live all over the world. I met Jerod in Beijing and we've kept in touch. He lives in San Francisco and offered to host me should I ever visit California. It didn't take me long to take him up on the offer...

San Francisco is a beautiful, vibrant and happening city. I'd visited a couple of times 

(once on a big US road trip and holidaying with a boyfriend in California some years ago) but staying with a friend gives it a totally new dimension. 

San Francisco introduced gay rights (Harvey Milk was the first openly gay man elected to public office in the US), personal computers, cable cars and organic food - they were all underground ideas until San Francisco made them mainstream.

It's a city that has it all. A sense of History, great museums and street art a plenty, a vibrant music scene and more restaurants per capita than any other US city. And it's on the ocean with stunning scenery on its doorstep as well as more outdoor activities than you can shake a stick at. And there's the iconic backdrop of the Golden Gate Bridge. I knew I would never want to leave, and I didn't...

Jerod at Stowe Lake in Golden Gate Park

Some of the creative hats at the Easter event in Delores Par

After a long flight via LA, I spent a lovely first day. Jerod took me to the marina and Crissy Field area by the aforementioned bridge.   We had lunch, walked on the beach, chatted lots. In the evening I mentioned a Hunan Chinese place I'd eaten at years ago called the House of Nanking (http://houseofnanking.net/). It was more touristy than I remembered and had undergone a facelift ( it was basic, formica tables before) but the food was just a tasty. Think Chinese but with lots of chilli and spice. Yum.

We wandered past the area where the Beat Poets had hung out and spent a while in the famous City Lights bookshop (which defied the ban and sold Alan Ginsberg's Howl). 

As it was Easter weekend, Jerod read about an event called Hunky Jesus at Delores Park, in the Mission district. As the pictures show, it was quite something. The hats in particular added their own nod to an Easter bonnet. It was unbelievably over the top and camp. Even the wet weather failed to dampen spirits. Only in San Fran. 

I tried to do something different everyday. Just walking in San Fran is a treat in itself. We walked to Golden Gate Park, a huge area of green in the city which also houses some of the best museums, I walked the bridge and took pictures at Fort Point with its stunning views of the bridge from below. Everywhere you encounter gorgeous Victorian architecture in pastel hues like the famous 'Painted Ladies'. I took a day to explore some of the Diego Rivera murals and visit the Coit Tower which offers stunning 360 degree views of downtown. And I haven't even mentioned the beaches, Ocean beach was a particular favourite and I loved the Beach Hut cafe at Crissy Fields. Other street art murals can be found around the Mission and Castro districts and I spent half a day wandering and taking photographs. 

Being there for such a long stay meant I had the opportunity to leave the city for a couple of days on a coastal road trip. Jerod and I hired a car and headed North, stopping off at Bodega Bay (where the famous Hitchcock movie The Birds was filmed) and Bodega Head (a good spot for whales on the journey to and from Alaska). Regular stops at stunning points like Shell Beach (pictured) and Salt Point followed. 

We spent the night in a motel at Fort Bragg, home to the stunning Glass Beach, and within striking distance of one of the highlights for me, the beautiful and quaint coastal town of Mendocino (pictured).

This trip was perfect in every way. I cannot thank my buddy Jerod enough. I have other friends there who I met up with too so that made it even more special.My first baseball game (Go Giants), winning a pub quiz two weeks on the bounce and even a night at the opera! I look forward to visiting again before too long.

San Francisco, you stole my heart. 

The mist rolls in...

The view of the bridge from Fort Point

A bit of Scandi, festive fun and my first Hogmanay!

The table ready for Christmas dinner

The ski jump at Holmenkollen

A beautiful day at Baerum

baerumsverk.no

A traditional Norwegian breakfast- yummy waffles with sour cream and homemade white currant jam

It's a while since I've blogged and with the new school term about to start (I should really be doing school work, but that OFSTED report can wait awhile- blogging is much more fun) I feel this will be the only time I have to update it for a while- at least until half term in February, when hopefully I'll be writing about a new adventure...

My last trip was to Holland (see Amsterdam blog entry) and from there I took a flight straight to Oslo, where my good friend Claire lives. We were long overdue a catch up as when she was in the UK over the summer, I was dashing off to the Olympics so we didn't see each other much.  Claire lives on the edge of the city at Osteras and I've visited many times before. It was a late night arrival and seemed ridiculously cold (well below zero) after the warm autumnal weather in Amsterdam. But it was a little early for snow.

I don't feel I have to rush around when in Oslo. We spent time chilling out, doing local walks and catching up. We had a day out and lunch with friends (Minnie, Dominique and baby Olivier) and a wonderful nearby craft village and former ironworks called Baerums Verk (see photos and link added) and I took Claire's son Linus for a day out to Holmenkollen which is where the famous ski jump is and a spectacular train ride from the city centre. In addition to being a residential area (a very expensive place to live with stunning views) it has been a ski recreation area since the late 19th century. I was there a couple of years previously when the Nordic ski Championships were being held. Linus and I did a walk and had 'varm sjokolade med boller' (hot choc and buns) at our favourite cafe. We were spoiled with homemade pizzas and a Danish dessert of 'kammerjunkere med koldskal' (like cookies and cream). One of the best things about travelling is the eating I always think...

Friends Claire and Minnie

Christmas for me was special this year having spent last years festivities in Australia. Claire and Linus were over here this time. It's a time for family and enjoying the build up and holidays. I was fortunate enough to experience not one but two Christmas markets (Birmingham and Manchester) and we did lots of family things over the hols, including seeing the Hobbit, panto at Nottingham Playhouse (Robin Hood too- the perfect Nottingham panto) , singing carols around Waingroves village and a lovely carol concert by candlelight at mum's local church at Cross Hill. Christmas Day itself was at my house with immediate family, Oscar at two being able to really enjoy and understand more about it this year. Although he had taken a dislike to santa, apparently...

So, onto New Year. My friend Zoe invited me to spend New year up in Scotland so a few days before, I made the journey via train from Derby to Aberdeen (just over 7 hours) and from there a couple more on to Elgin. Zoe teaches and is a HM at Gordonstoun school and the site is magnificent. On the coast and an hour away from the Cairngorms, it is in a great location for students for whom outdoor education is a primary focus. It is the school where prince Charles and other royals have attended and has a very prestigious history (see link). I love spending time up here. We did coastal walks and had a day in Aviemore as well as a party at Duffus House (on the Gordonstoun site) to see in the New Year, bagpipes, cocktails and sparklers included. It was a welcome break after a busy festive season and I returned feeling re energised for the new year ahead. Thanks to my perfect hosts, Zoe and Alex Sills.

Happy New Year to you all.  

Wonderful food @ Mountain cafe

The stunning Cairngorms, near Aviemore

A coastal walk to Hopeman on New Years Eve

Zoe and the lovely Lexi dog

Gordonstoun School entrance 

Gordonstoun school

Zoe and I before the Duffus party

Penelope's blog: Have hols, will travel. Part 1- Amsterdam

Penelope's blog: Have hols, will travel. Part 1- Amsterdam: The only way to travel in Amsterdam Jaw dropping architecture Yvonne cheering the runners as they enter the Vondelpark Ste...

Have hols, will travel. Part 1- Amsterdam

The only way to travel in Amsterdam

Jaw dropping architecture

Yvonne cheering the runners as they enter the Vondelpark

Stephanie enters the Olympic stadium

Look what I found on my camera! A goodbye kiss.....

The urge to travel is one that is ever present within me, it seems. I had been back at work for 7 weeks and with a half term to make use of, I looked at flights a few weeks before. An original plan had been to go to Copenhagen for a few days and then onto Oslo (where my good friend Claire lives) but as I couldn't find any reasonable flight prices I had a rethink and decided on Amsterdam from where I could  easily fly onto Oslo. It would give me the opportunity to catch up with friends who I had met on my 

trip too, Yvonne and Stephanie. 

I made the short journey from Liverpool on the first Saturday of the hols and arrived in Amsterdam for early evening. Yvonne met me at the airport and whisked me back to her home within 15 minutes in the Sud Ost area of the city. I had met Yvonne on the Gili Islands (off Lombok) last November and we had kept in regular contact ever since. 

We spent Saturday evening catching up, Stephanie joining us later, over a dinner of baked artichokes. It was lovely to see them both and the time we spent in the Gilis with another girl, Janine ( who couldn't make this reunion) was one of the best times of my trip. I was to go on to meet the rest of Yvonne's family. Her husband, Bert, works in the family smelting business and his workshop is directly opposite the house ( see picture). Four generations have worked here now his son, Joey, has begun his career here too. I met Yvonne and Bert's older daughter, Iris, who lives over the road too with her young family. She has her own business, Recycle, which makes bags and other accessories our of old bicycle tyres. Her Facebook page can be found @ Y-Recycle Studio.

Sunday morning we were out early  as Stephanie was running part of the Amsterdam marathon. Yvonne and I saw her at two points ( as she was entering the Vondelpark and later in the Olympic stadium). There was a great atmosphere in the city and we waited around to see the winner Winston Chebet of Kenya who won in a course record. 

The rest of the day was spent relaxing at Yvonne's, I went a wander late afternoon through the Jordan district, abuzz on a Sunday afternoon with people sitting at pavement cafes and shopping in some of the wonderful boutique shops,  before heading to Steph's for dinner where Yvonne cooked us Nasi Goreng ( an Indonesian dish to bring back memories) and we had a relaxed evening watching a movie. 

A beautiful art deco building

The recent addition to the Stedelijk Museum

Yummy apple pie at Winkel

The Meister family business

Amsterdam is a great city, full of charm and history, famous for its canals and cycling culture. I love how everyone here, and I mean everyone, cycles. People on the way to work, dressed up for a night out, parents with toddlers in seats on the back and OAPs. I had visited it 2 or 3 times before and wasn't bothered about being a 'tourist' as most if the museums I had been to previously and as the weather was so good it made sense to be outdoors. And now having friends here certainly helps as you see the city from a different perspective. I was able to borrow a bike and cycle with the girls, never having to consult a map. I loved it! I covered many miles over the next couple of days.

We went to a wonderful market (Norde Markt) and later Yvonne and I had tea and apple pie at the Winkel cafe, an Amsterdam institution, before exploring more of the city. We stopped to look at lovely art deco buildings in the Spui, and Yvonne pointed out the Begijnhof, a peaceful hidden courtyard edged with the homes of single women who pledge their life to religious service. The weather was unseasonably warm and we were able to sit in the sun enjoying a drink on a cafe barge.  We had dinner at a cost Thai restaurant that evening, with Yvonne's younger daughter, Merle, joining us. 

I had been on a previous trip to a Moroccan themed cafe called Bazar so we went there for coffee and cake, wandering through the local market in Jordan. I bought tea (a lovely mix called Muh that I had drunk at Yvonne's) before we cycled on crossing over the Amstel river and later calling at the Hermitage museum shop and having tea and cake in the garden. We passed through Museumplein (where some of the major museums are) and I posed with the I Love Amsterdam sign - a recent tourist addition as well as other Amsterdam building like the beautiful former post office building. I later saw the new addition to the Stedilicht Museum which is a dramatic addition to the architecture of the city (although many people think it looks like an upside down kitchen sink!)

After spending a fabulous few days here it was time for farewells. These guys are lifelong friends and we have agreed another reunion before too long either in the UK or Germany. 

I love Amsterdam and know I'll be back before long! 

Dinner with Yvonne, Steph and Merle

Goodbye, India. It's been a blast. Bodhgaya, Kolkarta and a little bit of HK!

Human rickshaws in Kolkarta, one of the only places where they still exist.

The site of mother Teresa's orphange

The last day of my travels, on the beach in Hong Kong

At the Maharbodhi Temple

Visitors flock to the 'Big Buddha'

The original Bodhi Tree

As I was flying out if Calcutta, a stopover in Gaya made sense and would break up the journey from Varanasi. I particularly wanted to go to Bodhgaya (about ten kilometres from Gaya, in the Bihar province) as it's the most important of the four Buddhist sites in India - the place where Buddha gained enlightenment. 

From the train I shared an auto rickshaw with a Japanese guy who was undertaking a Vipassana retreat- a form of meditation which allows no speaking or interacting for ten days - and made my way to the most important place in Bodhgaya, the Mahabodhi Temple. 

The present temple started to take shape in the 7th century but fell into disuse after Buddhism was virtually wiped out in India after Mughal invasions. In the nineteenth century the British 'rediscovered' it and since then it has become a very important place of pilgrimage for Buddhists worldwide. 

The temple is at the site of the original Bodhi Tree under which Buddha was sitting when he gained enlightenment. The tree there today is an offshoot of that original. When I visited there were monks sitting beneath it and people praying at and paying their respects at the shrine that exists in front of it.  The temple is also sacred to Hindus who see Buddha as an incarnation of Vishnu and despite Buddhist protests, the committee that looks after the temple is largely Hindu. Even I could observe how different the practices of these two religions are- Buddhists being very solitary and inward, with Hindus preferring a more public and exuberant approach.   

The spire of the temple is dominant and at 55 metres high, it is visible from all around. As you wander around the site, there are stupas and shrines a plenty and after travelling all morning thought this would be a nice place to sit and relax for a while. However. it was not to be as the usual questioning by locals and demand for photographs that has become such a feature of my travels in India continued. I couldn't even eat my mango in peace! 

My guidebook describes Bodhgaya as 'Buddhaworld' and it's easy to see why. Modern temples and shrines are dotted throughout the town. There are a Thai, Japanese and Bhutanese temples alongside a Tibetan monastery that houses a Buddhist population at all times of year although is particularly busy from November to February when huge numbers of Tibetans descend on the town, including his Holinesss on occasions. 

I also visited the site of the 'Big Buddha', a 25 metre Japanese style statue that was unveiled by the Dalai Lama in 1989. I have included a picture and reflected that whilst impressive, having seen the huge Buddha in Leshan, China, has spoiled me somewhat. 

My stay in Bodhgaya was short but enjoyable. I had dinner and visited a local bookshop (my friend Lilian had asked me to collect for her as she had previously set up an NGO in the area, such a coincidence, and I was to be seeing her in Hong Kong) before paying a final visit by night to the temple. 

*I have included a link to Lilian's NGO work in India at the bottom of this page.

And now for my final stop in India, Calcutta. It is in the state of West Bengal whose nationalism led to the new name of Kolkata being introduced in 2001. It was the capital of the British Raj (its architecture is incredibly British) and today is the third largest city in India, behind Delhi and Mumbai.

I was due to get a late train to take me from Gaya to Calcutta. Ig ended up being much later than expected, and it was nearly 3am by the time we boarded. After pretty much having smooth sailing on all previous bus and train rides, I suppose I had to have one blip! 

I had made my way to the platform for the scheduled time and ended up chatting to an Indian medical student called Amit for hours as we sat out the delay. I was actually glad of the company and felt a lot safer as Indian stations at night are not the nicest of places. Whole families, homeless individuals and children, the destitute and beggars were sleeping anywhere they could find space, using newspapers or sarongs as bedding. Close by to where we were sitting, an unfortunate young guy who couldn't walk properly had laid down his wooden crutches and was sleeping soundlessly on the hard platform with rats scampering nearby. An image I will not easily forget. Earlier in the day at the station in Varanasi I had fed a whole bunch of beggar children cake and mangoes. Whilst at times you become desensitised to the harsh realities facing the poor in India, at other times it hits you hard in the face. 

My last destination in India was Calcutta, one of the four great urban centres of India (along with Delhi, Mumbai and Chennai) and its third largest city and in the region of Bengal. Like two of the aforementioned, it also has its roots in the British Raj, in fact was its showcase capital. In its day it was the greatest colonial city of the East, something which is still evident today. Majestic colonial architecture abounds, and even in my short time here  I was in awe of the sense of 'Britishness' all around. 

One quote I read about Calcutta is " everything plays out before your eyes, not an inch of space is wasted" and this rang so true. Calcutta ( now known as Kolkata after a rise in Bengali nationalism ) is proud to be the intellectual and cultural capital of the country although this is often viewed alongside its reputation as the capital of poverty, something Bengalis get angered by. 

The city is a cosmopolitan one too, and alongside the street stalls and dwellers you find posh shopping arcades and restaurants. 

As a result of the above, my late arrival into Calcutta (Kolkarta) meant I had little time to do anything. By the time I had dropped off my bag, had a snack and worked out how I was going to get into the city ( local bus, 6 rupees later) I was left with only a few hours. 

The stunning Victoria Memorial

and St. Paul's Cathedral

I managed to see the Victoria Memorial and St. Paul's Cathedral as the pictures show. I also found my way to the site of the Mother Teresa Orphanage. I've included a link below.

Calcutta is also the only place in India where they still have human-drawn rickshaws (see picture). Apparently these come into their own during the monsoon (Kolkata gets crazy rain at times- something I thankfully did not see) and as she the streets get flooded to hip height, they are the only form of transport that is not paralysed! I didn't take one, I always feel bad enough when someone has to support me with a bike as a rickshaw, but apparently you have to be careful not to unbalance the driver. Many of them are very poor pavement dwellers.  

My time in India had come to an end after nearly two months in which I travelled east and West, North and South. From the southern-most tip at Kanyukamari to the foothills of the Himalayas, and the biggest cities on both the east and west coasts, Kolkarta and Mumbai. It had been an amazing journey, challenging me to my very core at times. 

India will always have a special place in my heart and, without doubt, is the place of some of the highlights of my trip. I met some great people in India too, particularly those who shared my time in Hampi. Pondicherry was pretty special too.

And now it was time not just for my next stop but also my LAST stop, Hong Kong.

This was just a whistle stop as I was flying back home the next day, so it was less than 24 hours in total. I flew via KL, spending the night on the airport floor (anything for a cheap flight!) and arrived in hong Kong mid morning. I knew I wanted to relax so headed to Repulse Bay (pictured) for some beach action via Aberdeen fishing village. In the evening I was fortunate to be meeting up with Lilian again (I had last seen her in India) as she now lives in HK. We got the ferry over to Lamma Island and  I enjoyed an alfresco meal and glass of wine (my first drink for two months!) and good company. After dinner we headed back to her house which included a walk by a beach and through tropical rainforest to reach it. I have included a picture here from the next morning as I made my way to the airport. 

So, after nearly eleven months, my trip was coming to an end. To all those, who contributed in some way (big and small) to this last year, I thank you. You will be part of the memories, namaste...

A view walking from Lilian's house

Lilian's organisation is called Sacred Earth Trust and you can find out more by visiting www.sacredearthtrust.org.

For more information on the work of Mother Teresa visit www.motherteresa.org

At the station in Kolkarta

Sent from my iPod

Hello India! Part 7- Varanasi

Beautiful early morning light on the Ganges

Art work on the banks of the Ganges

A child washing dishes in the Ganges

I arrived in Varanasi, the greatest of Hindu cities, from Rishikesh. An epic journey- my longest in India - partly due to it being the slow train, 22 hours in total. 

Varanasi, also known as Benaras, stretches along the crescent of the river Ganges, and it's ghats ( steps to the water) are the most famous in India and where thousands come to bathe in its waters daily. Known to devotees as Kashi ( City of Light) and founded by Lord Shiva, Varanasi is one of the most continuously inhabited  and oldest cities in the world. 

It is also famous for its 'burning ghats', where bodies are cremated before the ashes scattered in the sacred river. Anyone who does in Varanasi attains instant enlightenment do many elderly come here to live out their final days. 

I was in Varanasi at the time of the festival to Lord  Shiva ( mentioned in my Rishikesh blog) so the narrow alleyways full of people and animals, were even more cramped and tight than normal as devotees crowded through on their way to the holy '  Vishwanatha or Golden Temple' . The back streets are not always easy to navigate as piles of rubbish are strewn everywhere, animals  - dogs, pigs, buffalos and the ever present cows - wandering and picking through the rubbish.  Cow dung was an ever present problem too, having to dodge it that is. And on the monsoon rain, it created rivers of very nasty water to wade through. Nice. 

On arrival at the station, I managed to avoid the notorious touts and auto rickshaw drivers by contacting my choice of accommodation - Shanti Guesthouse ( near the Manikarnika or Burning Ghat) - and insisting that they collected me ( Alex who I had met in Rishikesh had recommended I do this) and therefore ensuring a 'free' auto rickshaw ride, something I had never received before and didn't expect to again!  It was a sound choice, my room was clean ( although without a window) and the guesthouse provided free Ganges boat trips at sunrise and sunset, and I got up early the next morning for the 5am trip to see the ghats come to life as the sun rose.

After checking in and showering, the light of the day was fading so I decided before dark to explore the immediate area. Marnkarnika Ghat, as I mentioned previously, is the 'burning' ghat and as its name suggests, it is the main cremation ground. Burnings happen all day and night, and bodies are carried through the narrow alleyways to the ghat, constantly. It was easy to find yourself in he midst of a burial procession in this area. As I arrived, the ghat was busy with funeral parties and those involved in building the fires ( there are stacks of logs everywhere- being delivered on boats, being stacked or prepared for a pyre, alongside the Doms - the Untouchable guardians facilitating the process of the final release). There were all sorts of people hanging around - those offering to talk you through the proceedings, insisting they were not 'guides', people clearing the scenes of fires or building new ones and the ever present cows, dogs and circling birds. 

It was a fascinating scene and I was to revisit a few times, seeing bodies cremated so publicly is not something we are used to. I saw one very clearly, its head visible as the lower half of the body burned. Relatives do not cry so the scene felt strange. I saw two men of the funeral party passing a mobile phone whilst dogs scampered and scavenged amongst the ashes of the burning body. All around preparations were being made for another burning as a body had arrived, shrouded in material and shiny orange and gold paper, the remnants and remains of these were scattered in the filth and debris all around and up to the edges of the water. The smell is not an unpleasant one as you would expect as the bodies are doused in oils, particularly sandalwood. I did notice some recycling taking place too as the bamboo used to make the  stretchers carrying the corpses were being collected to be used again. 

On the early morning boat trip on the river, I met fellow travellers who I was to spend time with over the next 24 hours. I did a walk all the way down to the southern Asi Ghat with two Irish girls. I have included pictures of some of the things we saw and people we met en route. We went into the narrow alleyways beyond the ghats to explore the Old City and found old temples , stalls, shrines, linghams and paintings on walls amidst cows literally everywhere. We had lunch at the wonderful Brown Bread Bakery Restaurant and Organic Shop which supports a children's charity and women's project from its profits. I have included a link. 

Amidst the narrow lanes of the Old City is the Vishwanatha or Golden Temple. Closed to foreigners, you were able to glimpse the gold plating on its massive shikhara (spire). It is heavily guarded ( even more so due to the shiva festival - I heard tales of women scratching each other in attempts to get in ) and there were chaotic scenes at the narrow entrance. It has a troubled history due to its close proximity to a mosque- which too has to be heavily guarded to prevent attacks from Hindu fanatics of which there seemed to be many in town! I got a good vantage point to view the proceedings of youths clad in orange chanting down the narrow alleyways, a man informed me that in the last ten years there have been many outbreaks of terrorism and ethnic violence between Hindus and Muslims in this area.

My last evening in Varanasi ( and India proper as I would be travelling the next two nights) was a special one. Along with the people I had met at Shanti and a group of four Irish travellers, we congregated at the waterside or Lotus ceremony performed at the end of the day on the banks of the Ganga. It was quite something to see the rituals that are so important to Hindus in this most sacred of cities. 

We finished the evening back at Brown Bread and chatted about places we had been, shared experiences and traded tips for other cities- for me it was great to pick up some some information for the last two places on my itinerary, Bodhgaya and Calcutta. 

I told those assembled that it was my last night in India, and apart from Hong Kong, pretty much the last of my trip and I was asked to share the highlights and what I'd learned in my journey. It was a great night with good people and although low key, one I won't forget. My journey was almost at an end.

Next stop: Bodhgaya then Calcutta ( Kolkarta) 

www.brownbreadbakery.com

Walking along the ghats brought many beautiful photo opportunities

Pilgrims in Varanasi

My last night in India, with fellow travellers at the brown Bread cafe