Penelope's blog: February 2014

A view of Cuzco from the Plaza San Blas

I arrived in Cuzco on an overnight bus and met an American girl, Sarah, at the bus station. She came with me to the hostel I had booked, Ecopackers (see link), one of the best hostels I stayed in not only on this trip but in all my travels. A courtyard which warmed up as the sun rose overhead combined with a common room with log fires and some of the most helpful staff ever. I can't recommend this place enough should you find yourself in Cuzco.

I had a couple of days to explore before my trek. The first day Sarah and I did a self guided tour, taking in the main sites of the city and a fantastic Mercado San Pedro market pictured here.

On day two I did a free city walking tour. I've done a few of these over the years in various places and they are a great way to get off the beaten track a little and meet like minded people. Local guides offer plenty of insight and knowledge. This one did not disappoint starting at the Plaza de Armas and ending with a session on how to make a Pisco sour! And of course we got to drink the finished product. (See link).

Early the following morning I was picked up by Carlos. I had met him for a briefing the previous evening and had been a little shocked to find out that I was the only person doing the trek. Known as the Lares trek (after the valley) it is a good alternative to the Inca Trail which is fully booked up to six months in advance. I was a little apprehensive to begin with but Carlos soon put me at ease and in some ways being the only hiker added to my experience. We started with breakfast by a river at the start of the valley just below 3000m. The highest point would take us just below 5000m. The first day was the easier of the two and to begin with I found relatively easy. I do a fair amount if hiking at home and I'm reasonably fit. But the altitude is something that you can't train or prepare for. It certainly slowed me down but on the first day the ascent seemed fairly gradual. We stopped for a long lunch ( the food prepared by two cooks was impressive) and the stretch to our first camp at the end of day one was only a couple of hours. So far so good.

The night was cold. Dinner was in a tent and I felt waited on in some style considering where we were! After we had eaten a four course dinner, Carlos told me to come out and see the stars. It was an incredible sight, quite breathtaking although I didn't hang around for too long as the cold was something else. We were expecting temperatures to get down to minus 15. I had on every item if clothing I possessed and had a good four season sleeping bag. I had a reasonable night and was ready for the early start next day.

Day two was to be THE DAY. After a 5am wake up we were walking within an hour and had hiked to our highest point by midday. The landscape was incredible, shrouded in mist and with many of the surrounding peaks covered in snow. Again, the altitude really slowed me down. We met plenty of llamas and alpacas and even a few people. The picture shows a woman weaving and her child and dog. The only people you are likely to see in these remote spots are those responsible for animals which get brought down to lower altitude at night. Children like a young boy who came to out tent on the second night and with whom we shared our popcorn. See picture.

After the ascent in the morning we descended for our lunch and had an hour of rest. But the afternoon saw more ascent and I began to struggle. I had to keep resting and the hiking until we got to camp took another 5 hours. It was hard and at times I felt I couldn't go on. It was dark by the time we arrived at camp. That evening the cold was once again severe but knowing the next day was going to be nothing in comparison was a relief.

Day three was so much easier at we were descending and by the afternoon had arrived at some hot springs. Before we got there a local Andean community was having an inter village football tournament and we stayed for a chat and glass of fermented beer with a group of locals as pictured. Having a shower and relaxing in the natural hot pools did wonders for my aching muscles and I was starting to really feel a sense of achievement. Saying that, Ron who I met earlier into trip spent 53 nights on the mountain when he climbed Everest. This seems pretty pathetic in comparison.

There was then a transfer by road to the nearest town through stunning scenery before a train transfer to Agues Caliantes, the small town closest to Machu Picchu.

I stayed in the sister Eco Packers backpackers which like the one in Cuzco, did not disappoint. I got in late after the 3 hour train ride but was in bed by midnight. I had to set my alarm for 4.30 to meet Carlos at 5am.

Seeing the sun rise over Machu Picchu is something I will never forget. It was truly special although the crowds were incredible. Carlos gave me a guided and informed tour for a couple of hours and then I had the rest of my time there to myself. As I was heading to the Sun Gate I bumped into Basio and Naomi who I had met earlier in my trip. We spent the next couple of hours together before saying our farewells once more.

See my separate entry for a bit about the history of one of the worlds most fascinating historic icons.

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