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| Boys playing on Palolem beach, south Goa |
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| Palolem beach in Goa- the sun did eventually come out |
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| A welcome cup of Earl Grey (my favourite tea ever) at the Cheeky Chapatti restaurant in Palolem Beach |
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| The SE Cathedral in Goa |
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| The beautiful Cathedral in Panjim, Goa |
I eventually left Hampi, knowing that this place will remain in my thoughts for a long time to come. The town is going through a huge transition as its people are in the process of being relocated to a 'new' village a few kilometres away. The plan is to eventually move all the businesses and inhabitants of the town to this new location. The process is evident, with many buildings already demolished and the place is abuzz with talk of what the government has decided will happen. Many people are losing their traditional way of life and businesses built up over generations. The balance between preserving historical monuments and the rights of inhabitants in such areas remains one that is difficult to manage without a human cost.
I have attached a link about the issue to this blog entry.
From Hampi I took an overnight train to Madgoan, the transport hub for Goa and headed south to Palolem beach. Despite the rain ( it is now the monsoon season) I loved walking along the beach with the sand between my toes. There was still life in the place and I found a room at a guesthouse right on the beach itself. There were a few other travellers around but it was a relatively quiet couple of days of reading, enjoying lovely food - I particularly liked the 'Cheeky Chapatti' restaurant ( see picture attached) - and being mesmerised by the view of the sea from the veranda of the guesthouse. And the sun did eventually come out so I managed half a day of beach time.
I had met Victoria from the US on my first day in Goa and she asked if I wanted to share a trip she was doing by car to Panjim and Old Goa. It sounded like a plan.
About an hour north of Madgoan, our first destination was Old Goa. Goa itself was used by the Portuguese as a base from the early 16th century when they tried to control the spice trade from the East. Jesuit missionaries led by St. Francis Xavier arrived in 1542. Today it is hard to believe that back in the 1500s the population exceeded that of Lisbon and London. So today, it's like a bit of Portugal has been dumped in India, it's influence all around. Old Goa has a number of churches to visit, including the imposing St.Francis of Assisi church and the SE Cathedral. From there it was onto Panjim ( formerly Panaji) , the capital of Goa. After a lunch at a local cafe we did a walking tour which began at the Cathedral and made its way through the heritage area of town where the colonial architecture is at its best. We marvelled at the colours of the buildings and the 'European' feel of the place. We stopped for refreshments at a beautiful art gallery cum cafe. And weaving our way up the steps of a temple dedicated to the monkey god Hanuman, we took in fantastic views of a very lush and green landscape all around.
I thoroughly enjoyed my day with Victoria. She is great and engaging company. And I particularly enjoyed being picked up and driven around all day. After local buses, my usual mode of transport, I felt like a VIP!
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| Colonial buildings on theHeritage Trail in Panjim, Goa |
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| The Hanuman Temple In Panjim |
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| The Taj Palace Hotel in Mumbai |
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| At the famous Gateway of India, Mumbai |
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| A mural in Mumbai |
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| Mumbai architecture |
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| Saturday afternoon strollers on Marine Drive |
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| Chowpatty Beach |
And so, to Mumbai , or Bombay as it was known during the Raj , a settlement that was ceded to the British by the Portuguese in 1661 who themselves had received it from the Sultan of Ahmedabad. Strategically significant, it's location on the Arabian Sea have made it the principal gateway to the Indian sub-continent since the opening of the Suez Canal. It is the capital of the Maharashtran region and has the label of being India's most dynamic and westernised city. I have to say, my first impression arriving in the Colaba District was one of Am I still in India? It is the principal home of India's business, industry and commerce and of course, it's film industry 'Bollywood'. It's crammed into a peninsular and gives the impression of a metropolis desperately short of space. But it's a city where the extremes ate most acutely felt- the urban uber rich rubbing shoulders with the desperate poverty of some of the worst slums in India. it has also been associated with home grown terrorism in 1993 when ten massive bomb blasts ripped through the heart of the city, killing 260 people. And again in 2003 when a car bomb exploded near the Gateway of India, killing 107 people. No one claimed responsibility for either attack although Muslim militants were suspected.
My stay was a short one. After finding the legendary Red Shield Salvation Army hostel and dropping off my bags, I set off to explore the immediate area. Colaba is the main tourist district and trendy hangout full of bars and restaurants. Within a few minutes I was at the Gateway of India (see photos) commemorating the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911. The arch was built in 1924 and is India's very own Arc de Triomphe. It is remembered also as the place the British chose to stage their final departure from India in 1948. Directly behind it is the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower- a showcase of local pride against colonial oppression. The industrialist who built it is said to have some so as an act of revenge after being refused entry into the ' whites only' Watson's Hotel. As I visited it was packed with largely Indian tourists posing for the obligatory photo in front of these two iconic Mumbai monuments.
The rest of my day was spent wandering in Colaba, particularly the street bazaar, and them making my way to the Churchgate and Fort area which contains some wonderful Raj architecture - the site of thr British era's oldest buildings- such as St. Thomas' Cathedral , the GPO and the Victoria Terminus, inspired by St. Pancras Station in London. I had lunch in a quirky little Iranian restaurant that had been recommended by another traveller called Britannia and Co.
My time in Mumbai was limited but I thoroughly enjoyed my day there and was definitely left thinking that I should have stayed longer. Taking a cab to the station, the driver talked me into a detour via Marine Drive and Chowpatty Beach, two Mumbai institutions. This stretch is popular for afternoon and early evening strolls. As it was Saturday and late afternoon, the area was buzzing with life. A great way to complete my short sejour in Mumbai.
Next stop : Delhi then Amritsar
Welcome Back To India..
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